Fundamentals' of Billiards
In billiards, as in any other sport, the ability to do the
spectacular comes only after one has practiced and mastered the
basic fundamentals of the game. What separtes the good from
the great is often more a matter of the time one has devoted to
mastering the basics, than due to major differences in athletic
ability.
Pool, in many ways, is like the game of golf, where professionals
routinely strike unbelievable shots. Just as champion pool
players routinely run racks, while beginners-- even those blessed
with immense physical talents-- struggle to string together more
than a few balls. And why? Why such disparity? How
can something they make look so easy, so routine, be so damn
difficult for the everyday player? The answer is simple:
practice. Not on miraculous triple-bank trick shots,but
on the basic fundamentals of the game.....
Stance, Grip, Bridge, Stroke.
The foundation upon which every player's game sputters, dies, or
magnificently blosssoms. Think of pool in the context of an
equally skilled calling: the development of an aspiring
concert pianist. Like a run of 200 balls, the most
breathtaking melodies have emerged from the establishment of basic
fundamentals.....Posture. Technique. Motor training and
coordination. Decades of commitment. Musical absorption.
Practicing the same scales in endless repetition, over and over
again.
Thankfully, pool is not (quite) as demanding. Yet, becoming
skilled in the basic fundamentals of pool is no less cruical than in
any other highly skilled arena. People don't simply becomes
champions overnight. Incredible feats in any sports are
invariably the results of years of training. Granted, not
every pool player aspires to be a champion. But most, if not
all, would be greatly encouraged if their game showed continued
improvement. God knows, practicing the basics--in
anything--can be pretty damn boring. But once you become
engrained, every aspect of your game--from appliying english, to
position play-- will be simplified. The fundamentals aren't
merely prerequisities for improvements; they are the foundation upon
which every player's game stands or falls. Without that
foundation, even the world's greatest players would be little more
that everyday strokers, struggling to set up their next shot.
Stance
The importance of a proper stance cannot be over-emphasized.
When you have it, every aspect of your game becomes simplified.
You are comfortable, relaxed, firm on your feet and, above all
else--well-balnced. Without a correct stance, even the
simpliest stroke becomes a twisting and gnashing of unneccessary
muscles. Your feet become unsteady, your center unbalanced,
and your muscles strain to correct the imbalance, resulting in an
imperfect stroke.
Obviously, stance is very important. If you expect the other
mechanics of your game to operate smoothly, it is imperative to have
proper balance at the table. The keys to a proper stance are
balance and comfort. Since no two people have exactly the same
body type or physique, a good stance is often a matter of personal
preference. When watching top professionals, you'll see many
differences in foot placement, degree of bend, and height of the
head above the pool cue. All their stances, however, are built
upon the same principal: to stroke smoothly, fuildly and evenly,
stance must be comfortable and balanced.
While your stance can be certainly be an expression of your
individuality, there are basic principles that must be adhered to.
First, your feet should be spread wide enough, so that a nudge (from
any angle) won't knock you off balance. Weight should be
evenly distributed from one foot to the other.
You should be comfortable enough to bend your knees slightly, or
lift out of your stance freely and easily. The position of
your feet is equally important. With the exception of certain
close-up or stretched over the table shots, both feet should be
pointed in the same direction. Many aspects of stance will
vary to a degree, even amoung professional players. Some say
you should stand 10-12 inches from the table. Of course, this
often varies with the nature of the shot, depending on where the cue
ball is located. The important thing is to establish a
consistent stance, one which will allow you to develop a consistent
stroke. One balanced and comfortable, giving freedom of
movement, allowing you to strike shots without pinching or
stretching.
The same principles hold true for shots that require you to alter
your stance. Whether you have to stretch accross the able or
squeeze close to the rail, balance is equally important. If
your stance ever becomes unsteady when setting up for a shot--if you
begin to tip or slip from your stance--pull off the shot and make
adjustments. If you can not attain a balance, don't play a bad
shot. Reconfigure your stance and try a practice stroke, or
use the mechanical bridge.
The positioning of the head is another aspect of the stance that
varies from player to player. Some players stand more erect
than others, with their chin several feet above the shaft of the
cue. Others bend so much, the hairs on the chin practically
whistle against it. Most players fall between the two
extremes. The important thing to considerin the poistioning of
your head is how it enhances (or screws up) your aim. Many
players feel that the lower they get the better they can see the cue
ball in relation to the object ball. Others feel that getting
to close makes it difficult to see the contact point of the object
ball. A safe starting point is to start somewhere in the
middle, with your chin about a foot from the shaft. From
there, you can adjust slightly up or down, until you determine where
you feel the most comfortable and effective.
Despite the many variations in pool stance, there is basic
principles virtually all the greatest players agree upon.
First and foremost, of course, is balance. Without a balanced
stance, none of the other mechanics will merge into a unified whole.
Feet should be spread to a comfortable level, with weight evenly
distributed. They should also be planted firmly on every shot
(even when stretching or using the mechanical bridge). The
distance one stands from the table should always allow for a
free-flowing stroke. Frount arm should be extended and
straight (or nearly straight), with the bridge hand planted firmly
on the table. The chin should be aligned, directly over the
cue. Posture (amount of bend) should be comfortable and based
on effectiveness--on the effect it has on consistently producing a
smooth, even stroke. Whether standing nearly erect, bending
profusely, or assuming a stance in between, the back arm should flow
freely in a pendulum stroke, keeping the cue stick level.
Finding the stance that fits one's game is often a matter of trial
and error.
For beginners, the simplest way is often to try a basic stance, then
modify it through practice and play. begin by standing erect,
one foot from the table, facing the direction of your shot.
With your weight evenly distributed, turn both feet slightly to the
right (for right-handed players), and bend slightly at the waist, to
a comfortable position. Your feet should be 6-8 inches apart.
Your chin should be directly over your cue. This stance will
allow your right arm to swing freely and your left arm to be
extended as straight as possible. Your left knee will be bent
a bit more that your right, and your body will be free to move
slightly forward with the stroke.
Grip
The proper grip of a pool cue is not as obvious as it may seem.
it is not a matter of merely grasping it somewhere on the butt end,
and tightening the grip to maximize impact. If anything, the
proper grip is one of delicacy and "lightness." Choking the
cue with a muscle-man's grip will destroy touch, control and
accuracy, and the very ability to shoot fuildly and straight.
The key to using the proper grip is simple: cradle gently,
relax and let your stroke flow freely. An effective pool
stroke is hardly a matter of brute strength, but a product of
smooth, controlled motion. The "where" and "how" of your grip
on a pool cue are equally important. Where you grip the cue
will affect stance and balance, and your ability to stroke freely
and smotthly. How you grip your cue will affect every aspect
of shotmaking: touch, follow-through, accuracy and control.
Perhaps the easiest way to determine where to grip your cue is to begin by locating the cue's balance point. This point on a cue (like the middle of the teeter-totter) on which the cue can be balanced by a single finger. After locating the balance point, slide your grip 3-6 inches down the butt end (the thicker end) of the cue. This should serve as a starting point to which you can alter with practice, until you find the exact point most comfortable with you.
The more you play, the more you'll realize that where you grip your
cue will often be determined by the nature of the shot.
Certain shots, by neccessity, will require you to move your grip
hand either up or down the butt, in order to stroke the cue ball
effectively. On shots close to the rail, for example, when
bridging close to the cue ball, you'll often be forced to move your
grip hand further up the cue (towards the tip), in order to stroke
the ball cleanly. On shots requiring a longer bridge (i.e.,
shots forcing you to stretch out into the middle of the table), your
grip will be close to the butt end of the cue.
On any shot, the position of your grip hand can be checked by a
simple procedure. When setting up for a shot, take a few
practice strokes, stopping the cue tip at the edge of the cue ball.
Think of your stroking arm as a pendulum, your grip hand as the
bottom-most point swinging through. Upon impact with the cue
ball, your arm (from elbow to the wrist) should be prependicular to
the floor, your grip hand pointed straight down, at the bottom of
the pendulum.
The key to a fluid stroke is to grip the cue firmly--yet
lightly--with the thumb and first three fingers. (many pros
say only the first two fingers are needed; that the ring finger and
pinkie should be doing little more than resting along the side of
the butt.) Your grip should be firm enough to provide both
power and control, yet light enough to allow for the delicate wrist
action needed for a fluid stroke. Whatever shot you're faced
with--one requiring power or finesse--always grip your cue the same
way!
Stranglehold grips destroy everything sacred in a winning pool
stroke: a fluid backswing, follow through, and free-flowing
movement. You can produce all the cue force ever needed in
pool with a relaxed finger grip and a pendulum stroke. The
term "grip," in itself, is somewhat misleading. In the game of
pool, the proper grip is hardly a firm handshake. It is more a
caressing--gentle, yet firm--the loving grasp of a child's hand.
Not involving the entire hand, like the squeezing of a baseball bat.
But a controlled, rock-a-bye cradle, involving only the thumb and
first two or three fingers (which ever is most comfortable to you).
When the cue is gripped properly, it should not touch the palm of
your hand. The space between the palm and the cue should
increase slightly on your backswing. On the follow-through,
your palm should come down on your cue--without sqeezing the cue any
tighter. Your grip should be light at all times, from the
begging of the backswing to the end of the follow-through.
Applying extra force only tightens the muscles and resists the fluid
motion of the pendulum stroke. Which, in the final analysis,
truly controls all. A smooth, fluid stroke is the key to all
pool success. It provides accuracy, control and
consistency--and all the brute force your game will ever need.
Bridges
The difference between a good and an average pool player can often
be traced to their respective hand bridges. When it comes to
accuracy, nothing is more important than the firmness and steadiness
of a player's bridge. Accuracy is a product of many factors: a
relaxed balanced stance; a smooth level stroke; proper cue grip;
controlled backswing and follow-through.....And, above all else, the
guildance of the cue. Like a bullet through a barrel, the path
of a cue is guilded through the channel of the bridge hand. An
effective bridge ensures stability, fuild movement of the cue, and
all but determines the accuracy of the shot.
Bridges are simply guildes to keep the cue on its proper course.
In many ways, a billiard-cue bridge is much like a roadway bridge: a
firm support structure, built to streamline a cue's travel, designed
to make passage more precise and effecient. Like a roadway
bridge, a billiard bridge should have a solid foundation, with the
bridge hand firmly planted on the table or rail. In most
cases, your bridge should allow you are to use a level stroke.
In every case, your cue should move easily and smoothly--regardless
of the shot or type of bridge being used. Your stroke should
never be compromised by a choked or sticky bridge. Your cue
should glide fluidly, without pulling against the flesh, through the
channel formed by the thumb and forefinger.
There are two basic types of bridges: an open and a closed bridge.
Each can be modified, according to the demands of a given shot, by
altering the configuration of the fingers. The open bridge is
generally recommended for beginners. (This has become a
debated point amoung professional players. Many say that an
open bridge is fine for beginners; that it's easy to use and makes
learning the game easier. Others argue that the closed bridge
should be used from the beginning. That the sooner it's
mastered, the sooner even a beginner will see dramatic improvement
in his or her game.
Both sides agree that when it comes to consistency, control--and,
above all, accuracy--the closed bridge is far more superior.
We at Pool Player believe that old habits, in any sport, often die
hard. That every player should be encouraged to learn the most
beneficial techniques, the first time he picks up a cue. That
in the long run, every aspect of your game will be rewarded.
Your stroke will be truer, your confidence higher, and your overall
game will be far more polished, the sooner you master the Standard
Closed Bridge.)
CLOSED or STANDARD CLOSED BRIDGE
The closed bridge is used by vitually every professional player.
It allows superior control of the cue, which leads to better control
of the cue ball. Any shot that requires something extra to be
exerted on the cue ball (i.e., draw, follow, speed, etc.) is best
served by a closed bridge. Many books offer pages of text on
the exact placement of the fingers for a proper closed bridge.
We believe an illustration and brief instructions will suffice.
The more you play, the more you'll see variations of this bridge
being used by different players. Play and practice will
determine the exact bridge configuration most comfortable and
effective for you.
Perhaps the easiest way to form a closed bridge is to begin by
making a fist with your bridge hand. Extend your arm and lay
your fist on the table, palm down, 8-10 inches from the cue ball.
Open your thumb and index finger and place the cue shaft on the
thumb. To form the cue channel, loop your index finger
around the cue. Complete the channel by connecting the
fingertip to the thumb (much as if you were making an "OK" sign).
With the heel of your hand on the table, spread the last three
fingers and place them as widely as possible, without strain.
This will serve as an additional base support, ensuring a smooth,
balanced stroke.
To complete the bridge, your hand will turn slightly inward at the
wrist. If your hand is arched properly, the fleshy part of
your thumb will no longer be touching the table. If your
fingers are spread properly, the cue shaft will be above the middle
of your third finger. A good channel will allow for fluid
movement of the cue. Too snug of a channel will result in a
pulling of the flesh; too loose, in a loss of control.
Like many aspects of the game, the configuration of a bridge often
varies from player to player. Some set up closer to the ball.
Some spread their bridge fingers wider. Some variations are
due to the simple fact that everyone's hand are different.
While the bridge you adopt should be comfortable and effective for
you, it should be built on the tried-and-true principals: a
firm, solid foundation, allowing for balances, level stroke; and a
channel providing maximum comfort and free-flowing movement of the
cue stick.
OPEN BRIDGE
While the closed bridge can be used in about 90% of your shots,
there are certain shots (i.e, shots close to the rail,
shooting over an object ball) in which an open bridge is far more
effective. Stretch shots are best served by the Five-Finger
Open Bridge. the Open Rail Bridge, V-Bridge, and Over-A-Ball
Bridge are extensions of this bridge, designed to meet the demands
of practicular shots. Each of these bridges should be
practiced and mastered, to complement your over all game.
Five-Finger Open Bridge
The Five-Finger Open Bridge is relatively easy to form.
(Practicing basic shots with this bridge may make it easier to
become comfortable with stretch shots, as well as the other three
bridges.) Begin with putting your hand flat (palm down)
on the table. Extend your fingers and raise your knuckles, to
form a mini hand "tent." Nestle your thumb next to the knuckle
on your index finger, without raising your thumb to high. Be
sure to keep the heel of your hand on the table, to ensure
stability and support. Spread the remaining four fingers.
The channel for the cue will be in the rounded "V" formed by the
raising of the thumb. Be sure that the index finger does not
face the cue ball (and, of course, using a level stroke), the height
of the channel should be roughly half that of the cue ball (about
1-1/1 inches off the table). This bridge should be used any
time you're forced to stretch so far across the table, that you
can't form a closed bridge without strain.
Open Rail Bridge
This is the most effective bridge when the cue ball is frozen to, or
less than three inches off the rail. In this bridge, the hand
should be flattened, with the heel of the hand slightly raised.
To ensure greater control, spread your thumb out, so the cue drops
between the thumb and index finger, to give the cue stick a more
effective guide. Because you are stroking the very top of the
cue ball, the way you stroke the ball is as important as the
position of your hands. To maximize control, take short,
deliberate practice strokes. Your emphasis should be on the
forward motion of the shot, so try to minimize backswing. Try
to hit the ball dead center. Make sure your cue does not raise
up off your bridge hand at any time. On shots slightly further
from the rail (2-3 inches). it's sometimes helpful to use the edge
of the cushion to further guide the shot.
V Bridge
The V-Bridge should be used when the cue ball is slightly further
(3-5 inches) from the rail. With this bridge, the rail is
extensively in the guidance of the cue, forming a channel with the
index and the middle fingers. To form a V-Bridge, lay your cue
stick on the rail of the table. Tuck your thumb beneath your
palm and form the channel by looping your index finger over the cue.
Your cue should be able to guide smoothly along the rail, through
the channel formed on the left by the thumb and middle finger; (by
the index finger for right-handed players). Keep your
remaining fingers flat on the rail, and keep your back swing level.
Over-A-Ball Bridge
This is probably the most uncomfortable and difficult bridge to
master. The over-a-ball bridge is basically an extension of
the open bridge, with the base fingers standing on "tiptoes."
It is used when the cue must be elevated; when you need to shoot
over an object ball, in order to strike the cue ball. To form
an effective bridge (and maximize cue control), it is vital to form
a steady and stable base of support. Don't attempt a shot
until your fnger base is solid and balanced. Forming an
effective "V" with the thumb and top knuckle of the index finger, is
also imperative for an accurate stroke. Arch your wrist by
extendingall four fingers to the table. Form a "V" by
extending your thumb upward. To prevent tapping the object
ball (a foul), don't bring the cue into the bridge until it is
stable and fully formed. Elevate the butt to the necessary
height and take several short pratcice strokes. the cue will
slide along the "V" and over the obstructing ball, with your
elevation of the butt end of the cue.
Mechanical Bridge
The "Ladies' Aid." The "crutch." The mechanical bridge.
The object of score and ridicule. When, in truth, the
mechanical bridge is a very useful instrument. Using it is not
a sign of "effeminate" weakness, but intelligence, self-assuredness
and playing to win. If a shot is beyond your reach with any of
the aforementioned bridges, the mechanical bridge should be used.
It's simple surpose is to provide cue support and guidance, on shots
too far to reach with your arms. Using it prevents you from
committing a foul (at least one foot must be in contact with the
floor when the tip of the cue contacts the cue ball). It also
prevents you from overextending your body and arms, and shooting
from an awkward, unbalanced stance. When ever possible, the
handle of the mechanical bridge should be held against the table.
This provides a far more stable base of support than holding it
upright in the hand.
When forced to hold the bridge upright because of intervening object
balls, be sure your grip is steady, your stance is balnced, and your
stroke is fluid and smooth. The bridge should be placed
approximately 8-10 inches from the cue ball. (As you become
more accomplished, you can adjust this. For shots that require
minimal action on the cue ball, a short bridge is best. A
longer bridge allows for a longer stroke and more action).
Stand more erect then you normally would. Keep the butt of
your cue about chest high. Bridge your cue in the appropriate
slot. (Most mechanical bridges have five slots--three on the
top, and one on each side. A higher slot should be used to
produce "follow;" a lower slot to produce "draw." grip your
cue at the end with your thumb and first two fingers. A nice,
easy stroke should be all you need. Use a short backswing, and
follow through on the shot as you normally would. For shots
requiring you to shoot over a ball, turn the bridge on it's side.
This will nearly double the height of the bridge, allowing you to
shoot over the obstructing ball by using a slot on the side.
Stroke
As important as your bridge, grip, and stance are, your game will
ultimately be determined by the quality of your stroke. A
winning pool stroke should be straight, smooth, fluid and
consistent. (Much like golf, pool is not a game of muscle.
A 16 year old girl with a picture perfect swing, can drive a golf
ball further and more accurately, than a 200 pound he-man with a
crappy swing.) In many ways, pool is most exacting game of
all. A winning game is a product of touch, precision,
consistency, composure and, above all, form and technique. The
proper grip, bridge and stance are indeed important....but only as
they merge into a cohesive whole, to achieve the ultimate goal.
In the final analysis, stroke controls all. Your game will
rise and fall on how the pieces come together, to produce a fluid,
surefire stroke.
Effective stroking is surprizingly simple. Granted, certain
shots make for awkward bridges and stances, but the majority of
shots require very simple strokes. In either case, basic
principles should always apply. Stroking the cue ball should
always be natural and unforced. The action of the wrist, elbow
and shoulder should be free and easy. Stance, of course,
should be balanced. Your eyes should be directly over the line
of the cue and cue ball. The natural motion of your arm
swinging forward will produce more than enough force to propel the
ball.
When stroking, don't keep the cue stick too close, or too far from
your body. Your back arm should remain at a distance, where it
can dangle straight down without touching. On your backswing,
take the cue back as far as you can, without pulling the tip
completely out of the bridge. The Proper grip will allow you
to keep the cue straight on your backswing. Never grip too
tightly, or try to "muscle" the ball. let the cue stick do all
the work for you. Always allow yourself a few practice strokes
before hitting the ball. It's a good practice to take the same
number of practice strokes on every shot. Repetition (even on
something seemingly as trivial as practice strokes) will only
help in attaining consistency. Three or four practice strokes
are generally enough. These warm-up strokes will help "groove"
you not only for the shot, but for a smooth and controlled
follow-through.
Your backswing is merely the initial movement of the pendulum, the
natural swinging back of the forearm. The cue motion will be
partly in the wrist and partly in the elbow. This is not to
say, however, that you should exert force with either. Your
arm and wrist should remain relaxed throughout the entire stroke.
the pendulum action and the weigh of the cue will exert all the
force you need. The pendulum action makes shot making
virtually automatic. Once you've mastered the closed bridge
and the pendulum stroke, you should be able, after your practice
strokes, to shut your eyes and execute the shot! Of course,
the pendulum doesn't end upon contact with the cue ball.
Without follow-through, the entire motion gets thrown out of whack,
resulting in an absolute loss of control. A pool stroke, much like a
golf swing, is as reliant on the follow-through as anything that
precedes it. (Imagine the control a golfer would have, if he
brought his club to a sceeching halt, the second he made contact
with the ball.)
Like the backswing, the follow-through should be fluid and smooth.
Stroking the cue ball is basically a "throwing" motion. A good
throwing motion is a product of a slow backswing and a smooth
acceleration through the ball. Just as a golfer swings through
the ball, a pool player must stroke trhough the cue ball. The
cue should increase in speed until contact with the cue ball, and
then come to a natural stop. Don't lift your bridge hand from
the table until you have finished your follow-through. (The
only time you'll lift it fast is when you play a draw shot, to
get out of the way of the returning cue ball.) Keep your head
down all the way through your follow-through. Always stroke
straight through the cue ball, even when applying english.
There is no prescribed distance for the perfect follow-through.
While most pros follow-through 10-12 inches, your follow-through
should be the natural extension of a fluid, pendulum stroke.